ABOUT PAKISTAN

Hunza:

Lord Curzon, a former viceroy, said, "The little state of Hunza contains more summits of over 20,000 feet than there are of over 10,000 feet in the entire Alps." Visitors to Hunza are deeply overwhelmed by the rugged charm and the fragrant breeze singing through graceful trees and the lushious green attractively carpeted fields all set against a background of snow-covered mountains. Situated at an elevation of 2,438 metres, Hunza Valley's tourist season peaks from May to October. The temperature in May is 27ºC maximum and 14ºC minimum. While the October temperatures range from: 10ºC maximum to 0ºC minimum. 

Glaciers abound in this valley, including the 30-mile long Batura and the immense Virjeraband Hispar glaciers. The Nubra, Braldu, Hushe and Saltoro rivers are born in the glacier-laced Karakorum; the Shyok River encircles the eastern flanks of the range; but only the Hunza River actually cuts from north to south completely through the Karakorum Range. The Hunza River has its origin in name at the juncture of the Kilik and Khunjerab nalas, some 100 miles from the river's mouth near Gilgit. Carving a gorge between 25,000-foot peaks and receiving the waters of scores of glaciers, this is by far the largest and the grandest tributory of the Gilgit River watershed.

Most parts of Hunza offer an awe-inspiring view of Rakaposhi (7,788 metres). The snows of Rakaposhi glitter in the moonlight, producing an atmosphere of ethereal magnetism. The fairy-tale like castle of Baltit, just above Karimabad, is a Hunza landmark built about 600 years ago. Stilted on massive legs, its wooden bay windows look out over the valley. Originally, this was used as the residence of the Mirs (the title of the former rules) of Hunza.

The Hunza Valley is composed of "Hunza Proper" (as Hunzakuts call it) in the midvalley, while the larger upper valley region is called Gujal and is populated by the Wakhi-speaking ethnic Wakhi. Nagar, another former state, is located in two areas, and you will visit its narrow glaciated canyons as you proceed up the valley. The Nagarwals speak Burushaski with their own accent. Practice your Burushaski, with those you meet; people will enjoy it, and you may be asked in for tea. Burushaski is a complex language with four genders, and it is a "language isolate," unrelated to any other tongue. The famous Hunza water (famous for long life and youth) is locally called "mel". Four clans live in Hunza, and each is said to have originally come from a different region: Dramatin from Tartary, Barataling from Russia, Kurukutz from Persia, and Broung from kashmir.

The 6-mile long fertile oasis beginning at Hassanabad contains small villages among terraced fields and is the center of the former state. Not far beyond Aliabad a link road branches uphill to the north of the KKH (Karakorum Highway)and is the direct way to Karimabad and Baltit (65 miles from Gilgit and ranging 500 feet up and down the hill at roughly 7,800 feet in elevation). Because of their inns and their spectacular location overlooking Rakaposhi and the green fields of Hunza and nagar, these two towns, Kareemabad in particular, function as the focus of Hunza for most visitors.

Just beyond 'Ganesh Village' below Kareemabad, the KKH (Karakorum Highway) crosses the Hunza river on a large, graceful bridge. Within walking distance from the bridge right on the roadside is 'Haldikish' (Place of the Rams), also known as the "Sacred Rock" of Hunza. This large rock has many carvings from different eras and in varying scripts. At Shiskot the KKH crosses the west side of the river and soon reaches Gulmit (about 8,000 feet). Gulmit has a couple of lodges and the town in itself, is an attractive one to visit. Just above the lodges is the Hunza Cultural Museum.

Hunza is an ideal place for mountaineering, trekking and hiking. Every area in the Hunza Valley up to, but not including , Chapursan is officially considered an openzone, even the dicey Hispar Glacier. Most treks in this valley are'nt particularly long ones but there are exceptions; the Hispar-Biafo walk and the hike to Shimshal are among such exceptions. Hunza genuinely offers an experience of a lifetime!

Hopar Valley:

First option is to make day excursion from Karimabad Hunza. This valley it is just 14km from main town of Hunza. Hoper offers a panoramic view of Hunza and Ulter peak, Hunza peak and Barpo glacier. A leisurely stroll through the opportunity to observe the every day life of the countryside. Hoper is a another popular tracking spot offering a natural blend of ruggedness and scenic beauty. There are many tracking routes specially Rush lake track is one of the best tracking route in the Nagar region.

Shimshal Valley:

Shimshal Valley is an un-spoilt part of the upper Hunza valley where the old traditions are still a vibrant part of the peoples every day life. Nine glaciers flow South in to Shimsahl river, we cross the moraine of Malangutti glacier to the foot of the glacier itself from where there is an outstanding view of Dastaghill Sar Peak 7785m, means sheep fold in the hills thus making it the highest peak in the region. From here we continue to Shimshal village a settlement of 1000 or so people living in mud and stone huts perched at the foot of a huge rock massif, we have a good chance to explore this fascinating settlement. Here most of the people are climbers and trekkers and hard workers.

Chitral:

The Chitral Valley located at an elevation of 1,128 metres is one of the most popular spots amongst mountaineers, anglers, hunters, hikers, naturalists and anthropologists. The 7,705 metres Tirich Mir, the highest peak of the Hindukush mountains, dominates this 322 kms long exotic valley.

The Chitral district has Afghanistan at its north, south and west. A narrow strip of Afghan territory, Wakhan, separates it from Tajikistan. The tourist season in Chitral is from June to September. The maximum temperature in June is 35 C and the minimum is 19 C. In September, the maximum goes upto 24 C and the minimum temperature falls down to 8 C. Which makes your stay pleasant and comfortable.

The Muslim tradition of offering hospitality to the 'muzzafer', the traveller, is observed throughout Pakistan's Northern Areas, but in few places is it offered so genuinely as in Chitral. If someone should invite you to stay in his house, it will be an unforgettable experience. Most village homes in Chitral have a large family room called "Baipash". In the middle of the Baipash is a fire place with home spun rugs arranged near it upon which the family and neighbours sit. Some well-to-do people have a separate room especially for visitors called an "Angotee".

Chitral has a strong musical tradition. The "Chitrali Sitar" a graceful string instrument, is heard daily at small workingmen's teahouses in Chitral Bazaar. The 'Chenai' and 'Dol' (Oboe and Drums) frenetically accompany all polo matches.

One of the major attractions of Chitral, is the famous Kalash valley - the home of the Kafir-Kalash or "Wearers of the Black Robes", a primitive pagan tribe. Their ancestry is enveloped in mystery and is the subject of controversy. A legend says that five soldiers of the legions of Alexander of Macedonia settled in Chitral and are the progenitors of the Kafir-Kalash.

Over 3,,000-strong Kafir-Kalash live in the valley of Birir, Bumburet and Rambur, south of Chitral. Bumburet, the largest and the most picturesque valley of the Kafir-Kalash, is 40 kms. from Chitral and is connected by a jeepable road. While Birir and Rambur are located at a distance of 34 and 32 kms respectively from Chitral.

The Kalash women wear five large braids of and the 'Cheo', a black woolen homespun dress, red-beaded necklaces by the dozen, and an exceptional head piece (shaped differently in each valley) covered in cowrie shells, beads and trinkets that flow down their back.

The Kalash are a friendly and cheerful bunch, who love music and dancing, particularly on their religious festivals like Joshi Chilimjusht (From 14th - 21st December).

Polo is the most popular sport of Chitral. It holds similar importance amongst the Chitral & Gilgit populations. Polo matches are great attractions and festive occasions for all tourists. Even if you do'nt have a knack for this game you'll surely love the atmosphere it creates. A regular Polo tournament (Shandur Polo Tournament) is held every year (First week of July) at Shandur Pass. It is indeed a wonderful tourist attraction!

Sawat:

The lush-green valley of Swat, with its rushing torrents, icy-cold lakes, fruit-laden orchards and flower-decked slopes is an ideal place for holiday-makers who intent to relax and enjoy the fruits of nature. Apart from its natural attractions, Swat owns a rich historical past too. The valley of Swat sprawls over 10,360 sq. kms at an average elevation of 975 metres. The maximum temperature is maximum 21 C and minimum 7 C. The tourist season continues all year round.  From the Second Century B.C Until the Ninth Century A.D, Buddhism flourished in Swat, and the vale was the birth place of Vajrayana (Tibetan) Buddhism. In the eighth century the historical figure who has come to be known as Guru Rimpoche or Padmasambhava left Swat, or Uddiyana as it was called then, and embarked on his long journey of conversion through Ladakh and Tibet. 

The Nyingma sect of Buddhism that he taught is still followed in many regions within Ladakh, Tibet and Nepal. Scores of archeological sites in Swat recall its Buddhist era, a period that lasted in a small way untill the sixteenth century.

Swat was also the historic land where muslim conquerors like Mahmud of Ghazni, Babur and Akbar fought their battles preparatory to the conquest of the subcontinent. The ruins of great Buddhist stupas, monasteries and statues are found all over Swat.

The upper valleys of Swat Kohistan, "Swat's Land of Mountains," rise up to steep, pine-covered ridges that lead toward scores of snow-clad 18,000-foot peaks. Swat receives adequate monsoon rain and has an Alpine flavour reminiscent of the Rockies or Alps. 

The headquarters of Swat Valley, Saidu Sharif, houses the Swat Museum which contains one of the finest collections of Gandhara art in the world. Mingora, 3 kms from Saidu Sahrif, has yielded magnificent pieces of Buddhist sculpture and the ruins of great stupas. Thirty miles north of Mingora is the pleasant town of Madyan in the last open stretch before a pine-clad gorge leads to Swat Kohistan and, in another 30 miles, to Kalam. In the upper Swat, look for the unique mosques constructed entirely entirely of wood that are found in most villages. These mosques have a quiet beauty despite their modest size.

Marghazar, 13 kms from Saidu Sharif is another captivating spot worth visiting which is famous for its "Sufaid Mahal" (White Mahal). This is the white marble palace of the former Wali (ruler) of Swat. The town of Bahrain is another popular riverside resort, situated about 66 km from Saidu Sharif, only 10 km from Madyan. The Ushu (2,286 meters), Utrot (2,225 meters) and Gabrial (2,286 meters) valleys, north and west of Kalam respectively, are the best trekking areas in Swat (take a local guide along for safety purposes). These valleys are considered to be the best trout fishing zones of Swat and the sorrounding thick pine forests are excellent for hiking. The 6,257 meters high snow capped 'Falaksair Peak' is clearly visible from Matiltan (3,000 meters). Some 23 km beyond the Matiltan valley is 'Lake Mahodand'. This lake is as beautiful as the famous lake Saif-ul-Muluk in the Kaghan valley.

Nanga Parbat:

The Himalayas are a great mountain range formed by the collision of Indo- Pakistan tectonic plate with the Asian Continent. The central Himalayan mountains are situated in Nepal, while the eastern mountains extend to the borders of Bhutan and Sikkim. Nanga Parbat massif is the western corner pillar of the Himalayas. It is an isolated range of peaks just springing up from nothing, and is surrounded by the rivers Indus and Astore. Nanga Parbat or "Nanga Parvata" means the naked mountain. Its original and appropriate name, however, is Diamir the king of mountains.

Nanga Parbat (main peak) has a height of 8,126m/26,660 ft. It has three vast faces. The Rakhiot (Ra Kot) face is dominated by the north and south silver crags and silver plateau; the Diamir face is rocky in the beginning. It converts itself into ice fields around Nanga Parbat peak.
The Rupal face is the highest precipice in the world. Reinhold Messner, a living legend in mountaineering from Italy, says that "every one who has ever stood at the foot of this face (4,500m/14,764ft) up above the 'Tap Alpe', studied it or flown over it, could not help the amazement of its sheer size; it has become known as the highest rock and ice wall in the world!". 
Nanga Parbat has always been associated with tragedies and tribulations until it was climbed in 1953. A lot of mountaineers have perished on Nanga Parbat since 1895. Even today it is claiming a heavy toll of human lives, mountaineers in search of adventure and thrill, and in finding new and absolutely un-climbed routes are becoming its victims.
was in 1841 that a huge rock-slide from the Nanga Parbat dammed the Indus river. This created a huge lake, 55 km long, like the present Tarbela lake down-stream. The flood water that was released when the dam broke caused a rise of 80 ft in the river's 3 level at Attock and swept away an entire Sikh army. It was also in the middle of the nineteenth century that similar catastrophes were later caused by the damming of Hunza and Shyok rivers.

The Nanga Parbat peak was discovered in the nineteenth century by Europeans. The Schlagintweit brothers, who hailed from Munich (Germany) came in 1854 to Himalayas and drew a panoramic view which is the first known picture of Nanga Parbat. In 1857 one of them was murdered in Kashgar. The curse of Nanga Parbat had begun!

Khyber Pass:

The historic Khyber Pass is situated at a distance of 16 kms west of Peshawar and extends up to the Pak-Afghanistan border at Torkham. Starting from the foothills of the Slueman Range it gradually rises to an elevation of 1,066 meters above sea level. Khyber Pass has been a silent witness to countless events in the history of mankind. As one drives through the Pass at a leisurely pace, imagination unfolds pages of history.

 The Aryans descending upon the fertile northern plains in 1,500 BC subjugating the indigenous Dravidian population and settling down to open a glorious chapter in the history of civilization, the Persian hordes under Darius (6th century BC) crossing into the Punjab to annex yet another province to the Achaemenian Empire; the armies of Alexander the Great (326 BC) marching through the rugged Pass to fulfil the wishes of a young, ambitious conqueror; the terror of Ghanghis Khan Unwrapping the majestic hills and turning back towards the trophies of ancient Persia; the white Huns bringing fire and destruction in their wake; the Scythians and the Parthians, the Mughals and the Afghans, all conquerors, crossing over to leave their impact and add more chapters to the diverse history of this sub-continent.

The Khyber Pass, the route from Peshawar to Kabul in Afghanistan, is the feature of the NWFP province most widely known (and infused with romance) to the outside world. To visit This famous pass you need a special permit from the Political Agent because of the tribal dangers and official sensitivity over drugs and guns.

The Khyber Train :

For trail enthusiasts, The Khyber Train journey from Peshawar to Landi Kotal is a three-star attraction. The British, built it in the 1920s at an enormous cost of more than two million pounds. It passes through 34 tunnels totaling five kms (three miles) and over 92 bridges and culverts. The two or three coach'es are pulled and pushed by two SG 060 oil-fired engines. At one point, the track climbs to 130 meters in little more than a kilometer (425 feet in 0.7 miles) by means of the heart-stopping Changai Spur. This is a W-shaped section of track with two cliff-hanging reversing stations, at which the train wheezes desperately before shuddering to a stop and backing away from the brink. The Khyber train currently runs only by appointment. Groups of 20 to 45 passengers can book one bogey for an all day outing to Landi Kotal and back, a ride lasting ten to eleven hours. You can easily steal a glimpse of this train resting at Peshawar Station. This journey allows you to explore parts of Pakistan like you have never done before.

Deosai Park:

In the words of Aleister Crowley, "In front of us lay the Deosai, an absolutely treeless wilderness of comparatively level country framed by minor peaks. It gives a unique impression of desolation. I have never seen its equal in this respect elsewhere. Yet the march was very pleasent with many flowers and streams". The Deosai plateau is conveniently placed between the western massif of the Himalayas and the central Karakoram. It covers an area of about 7200 square kilometres, with an average height of 4000 metres. The Deosai, is indeed a precious gift from mother nature.

Extending to about 40 to 50 miles and sorrounded by snow capped peaks, the Deosai has the purest of air. Clouds above may appear just beyond ones reach and hills that seem to be nearby retreat as you approach. The Deosai pose an inspiring captivation with their ever changing color with changing light. On the high plateau one may find very special plants and flowers. The plain is dotted with Edelweiss, in the Alps it is a protected flower. Between this almost exotic flora live bears, marmots and even the snow leopard may be found.

To the south of and visible from both the Burji and Stapara approaching areas is a 700-foot hill, on top of which is a 500 foot-high-rock cairn. This unnamed hilltop in the northern deosai region produces a clear panorama of the Himalayan Pangri Range and sections of the Karakorum. As you ascend its gentle, grass covered slopes, Nanga Parbat will come into view far to the west of you. In 'Gypsy Davy's' words, "It was such an expanse of immensity as I have hardly imagined...It seems you cannot talk in a matterof-fact way in a place like that...I thought the Sierras were large, but here, where we could see three or four score miles north, south, east and west, and see only mountains, and most of them above twenty thousand feet, the Sierras seem like sand dunes".

Wildlife:

The Deosai National park contains the largest Brown bear population in Pakistan. The park currently has about 20-25 Brown bears. This park was establised to protect these endangered bears. Recently a research project has started to monitor the population of these bears and protect their environment. Snow leopards also wander into the meadows of this unforgiving land. Mammals in the park may include--Brown bear, Snow leopard, Golden Marmot, Pika, Migratory hamster and Ermine. While birds may include--The Golden eagle, Lammagier vulture, Griffon vulture, Laggar falcon, Peregrine falcon, Kestrel, Indian sparrow hawk and Snow cock. Its splenderous beauty adds to this parks attraction. I must see for all tourists!

Lal Suhanra Park:

Lal Suhanra Nartional park was declared a national park on 26 October 1972, following recommendations made by the Wildlife Enquiry Committee in 1971. Originally, the park comprised an area of 31,355ha, of which 20,932ha were desert, 8,488ha irrigated forest plantation and 1,934ha reservoir.This park is ideal for recreation, education or research but shooting is forbidden. The park, 36 km to the east of Bahawalpur, is a combination of natural lake and forest on 77480 acres of land and spreads over on both sides of the Bahawalpur canal. It is crossed by the dried-up bed of the Hakra River and features an important wetland, Patisar Lake. Blackbuck became virtually extinct in the Cholistan Desert but the species has been re-introduced in Lal Suhanra within large enclosures, together with Chinkara gazelle, Nilgai antelope, Hog deer and Indian rhinoceros.

There is big lake in the center of the park called Patisar Lake, which is ideal for bird watching. Patisar Lake regularly holds between 10,000 and 30,000 ducks and common coot in mid-winter. Over 13,00 waterfowl were present in January 1987. The park also supports a large population of birds of prey.

From October to March one may have a pleasent visit to this national park. It has a watchtower, catching ground, tourist huts, rest houses, camping grounds, TDCP Resort with 6 Air conditioned Bed Rooms and treks for the visitors and nature lovers. 

The Hog deer, ravine deer, black buck and nilgai are quite common in these parts. Fox, jackals, hares, porcupines, mongoose, larks, owls and hawks are also found in Lal Suhanra National Park. One should be careful of the Wild Boars which are found in large number in the nearby forest areas. Lal Suhanra National Park which is actually a wildlife sanctuary is worth a visit.

Wildlife:

Mammals in the park include Nilgai antelope, Black buck, Chinkara gazelle, Hog deer, Indian fox, Jackal, Desert Hare, Porcupine, Caracal cat, Moongoose, Jungle cat, Indian Wolf (rare),Wild boar, and Indian rhino (introduced).

While Birds may include Houbara bustard, Griffon vulture, Honey buzzard, Marsh harrier, Hen harrier, Laggar falcon, Peregrine falcon, Kestrel, Indian sparrow hawk, Egyptian vulture, Larks, Shrikes, Wheatears and Barn Owl.

Some Reptiles located in the park are Monitor lizard, Russells viper, Indian cobra, Saw scaled viper and Spiny tailed lizard. For tourists who love to be in the wilderness, Lal-Suhanra Park is the best place to be!